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Of the diversity of Virginia’s natural beauty, outdoors recreation, and cultural activities, the River Country presents its own unique ways to enjoy the best of nature and the fruits of man’s labor.
In my work with , I’ve explored this land between the rivers that feed into the Chesapeake Bay. I’ve floated down the unspoiled Dragon Run, paddled the rivers and estuaries, feasted on the seafood and sipped the wine, browsed the shops, and met the friendly, down-to-earth people, the come here’s as well as the been here’s.
Lying east of the state’s fall line, this low country is a vein-workviagraof streams and rivers, marshes and swamps. Although the area was settled by British colonists early in U.S. history, it still retains much of its rural character. Once you cross the York River from the south, or the Potomac River from the north, you’ll find forests and farmland, fields and watery vistas, farmhouses and small towns.
On a recent trip to the area, I had the opportunity to explore further. Even better, I was privileged to use in Irvington, Virginia as my hub.
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Although many treasures lie beyond the gates of this “Chesapeake Bay Tradition,” the Irvington resort is a gem of its own, a magnificent solitaire. Established in 1946, the well-manicured property lies on a peninsula in Carter’s Creek—really more like a small river than what those of us farther inland consider a creek. The Inn’s tranquil setting on the water is complemented by lush lawns and plantings that promise blooms throughout the season.
The 106 guest rooms – including basic rooms, rooms with sitting areas, and others with suites – offer first-class amenities for a comfortable, elegant stay. Though all views are serene, many rooms overlook Carters Creek as it stretches out to the Rappahannock River. In recognition that some travelers want to bring their furry family members on vacation, several of the rooms accommodate pets.
Luxurious accommodations such as these can easily be tainted by inferior service. When we pulled up to the doors of the resort on our first day, we were greeted by a doorman who made us feel immediately welcome. We soon learned that this friendly employee was merely a temporary replacement for the regular, long-serving porter, who has been greeting guests merrily for many years. Further, we learned that the regular had been in a motorcycle accident earlier that week, and that the general manager and staff had already been to visit him. Soon thereafter, we learned of the longevity of Tides Inn staff, including one employee who has been there for nearly 50 years. No, there was no inferior service to taint the atmosphere. The genial staff suits the comfortable accommodations quite well.
“We’re looking for reasons to look after people,” explained the general manager, Gordon Slatford. Although he was referring to Tides Inn guests, it seems they look out for staff as well, which translates into exceptional customer service.
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If I was the proud owner of a boat, I could have parked at the 60-slip marina. I would’ve had the choice of checking in to a guest room for my visit or staying in my boat. Either way, I could have stepped off my boat and onto land to enjoy all of the Inn’s accoutrement.
Since my transportation has wheels, I instead stepped off of land and enjoyed the water. Water play opportunities abound at the Tides Inn. Heated outdoor pool, beach, fishing, and non-motorized watercraft – kayaks, canoes, duffy boats, and paddleboats – are available at no charge to guests. Boat tours are available, too.
My most memorable adventure was my first sailing lesson. I’ll confess – I never understood the lure of a sailboat. I accepted others’ passion for sailing like one tolerates another’s taste for brussel sprouts or okra.
My morning on the sailboat, under the patient guidance of Premier Sailing School co-owner Arabella Denvir, gave me an entirely new point of view. In my brief time on board, sailing from Carters Creek out into the Rappahannock, with the bridge to White Stone in the distance, I learned the basics of sailing. I learned about the mainsail, the tiller, the boom, and the mast, and about how to work with the rest of the crew. I learned about tacking and jibing, steering the boat upwind or downwind. I also learned to sit in front of the mast, absorbing the spirit of the river.
Established at the Tides Inn in 1998, is owned and operated by Philip and Arabella Denvir, whose years of sailing stretch throughout the world, including their first sailing school in the Mediterranean. Arabella has been sailing since she was a child in Ireland. Her family RV was their boat, and she filed away her early lessons not only to perfect her sailing skills but also to hone her teaching methods. She has been immersed in sailing throughout her life, practicing and teaching. She knows women of the competitive sailing world, and we chatted about , a friend of Arabella’s and a competitor I had the opportunity to write about for . With her patience and her lilting Irish accent, I was happy to hear Arabella’s corrections on my sailing, learning a new skill that I hope to try my hand at again someday.
Besides the two-hour lessons like mine, Premier Sailing School also offers day rates and multi-day courses, including certification courses, for children age 6 and up and adults, at affordable prices. Premier also offers skippered charter sails and corporate events.
Our time on the water ended too soon, as all of the best-timed enjoyable outings do. I could get used to this, I realized.
The Tides Inn offers landlubber recreation, too. On the terra firma, you can enjoy tennis, bike riding, croquet, basketball, shuffleboard, bonfire on the beach, and horseshoes. Kids can enjoy the , a day camp with scavenger hunts, nature exploration, swimming, sand sculpting and more.
If golf is your gig, you can enjoy the Tides Inn par 3, 9-hole course, complimentary to guests. Only a short drive away (so to speak) is championship golf at the 18-hole Golden Eagle Golf Club, sited on a beautiful wooded landscape around a 50-acre lake, boasting elevation changes and well-placed bunkers for all skill levels, three major water hazards, and a par of 72. From the championship tees, the Golden Eagle is 7,025 yards and has a USGA rating of 74.4 and a slope of 136.
It was challenging pulling myself away from the activities at and around the Inn, but I easily made time for a massage at the spa. My therapist, Patricio, had been recommended to me by an aesthetician friend who has worked at the spa. Patricio gave me a wondrous sampling of spa treatments, from body scrubs and hot towels to a classic Swedish massage. If I hadn’t been so marvelously relaxed, I could have considered some of the other spa offerings: body treatments, facials, manicures and pedicures, and healing techniques. For those who are at the Tides Inn for a special occasion – or who simply want to look as beautiful as they feel – the spa offers hair care, waxing, and makeup.
